|
Valencia, contains a vast array of landscapes. As you
travel inwards, the picturesque coast line quickly gives way to a scenic
inland which then rises into a chain of mountains that stand between the
coast and the plateau of Central Spain. The cuisine of the region is a
simple reflection of this geographical diversity. Seafood abounds along the
coast, acres of perfumed orange and lemon groves scent the air of the
inland and vegetables and grains of every description, including rice, can
be found growing in the fertile farmlands.
Rice is one of the basic foods of Spanish cuisine and one of the most
famous Spanish rice dishes is paella. The traditional way of cooking paella
is outdoors on an open flame. There are many interesting aspects to the
ritual of preparing and eating paella. Around Valencia it is customary for
the male of the family to take charge of proceedings – men who
usually never cook at home and have no idea how to make anything other than
paella. The fire is critical: experts say the best kindling is vine shoots
and the fire is best when the wood is glowing red-hot but still flaming.
The ancient rite of fire-making gives the cooking process a mythical and
magical component that perhaps attracts many men to take charge of the
ceremony.
Before preparing the feast, the cook will measure out his ingredients
according to the exact number of guests and family members he expects to
feed, who traditionally sit in a circle to eat the paella straight from the
pan. Imaginary lines from the edge of the paella to the centre mark the
area into which each guest may stick his or her fork without trespassing on
his neighbour’s territory.
Another great symbol of Spanish gastronomy, to which Valencia is home, is
the humble orange. Originally, oranges were planted, not so much for their
fruit trees, but their fragrance and suggestive beauty. At this time,
orange zest was pounded into a digestive paste eaten in pellets at meal
times, the blossom was used for making orange-flower water and the bark
chewed as a sweetener for breath. Not surprisingly, brides traditionally
carry orange-blossoms to the altar in Spain.
The Spanish monks were amongst the first to make good use of oranges in
their cooking. Juan Altimira, a Franciscan, used the juice in fish dishes
in his Nuevo Arte de Cocina (1745) while El Cocinero Religioso (penned in
the late 17th or early 18th Century) gave recipes for crystallised rind,
orange marzipan and batter-dipped fried fruit. Once commercial groves were
planted in Valencia in the 18th Century, agricultural techniques improved
and many new sweet varieties emerged. 
Of course there are countless ways for cooks to use oranges – in
green leaf and fruit salads, sorbets and ice creams, soufflés and
mousses, jams and cakes. But in Spain, it could be argued there is no
better way to enjoy an orange than freshly peeled and segment by segment
– to enjoy the bitter-sweet tanginess of the juice and the
flesh.
Another great way to enjoy oranges and other fresh citrus fruits is in
sangria – a refreshing mixture of red wine, gaseosa (lemonade),
chopped fruit and a little sugar. Another favourite drink is Agua de
Valencia, a refreshing blend of cava (sparkling wine) and orange
juice.
SANGRIA
For each litre of Spanish dry red wine you add one litre of plain
lemonade, one measure of Spanish brandy, slices of lemon, orange and peach,
sugar and a stick of cinnamon. Leave the fruit to macerate in the wine for
four hours. After that, add the lemonade, the brandy and the sugar, just to
make it slightly sweet. Finally add the cinnamon stick and chill. Serve in
a long drinking glass with the slices of freshly cut fruit and ice
cubes.
|
